I hadn’t been to Henry’s in Cardiff since I was a student 15 years before, when we occasionally used to buy cocktails during happy hour. At that time, I didn’t connect it with the bar of the same name in Cambridge, but it transpires they were part of a chain of restaurants across the UK. Now they only have three outlets left, two in London and this one, and these are owned by the Stonegate group (which also owns the Scream, Yates’s, and Slug and Lettuce chains; doesn’t necessarily bode well). Henry’s has a retro feel to it, and even the waiters seem transported from another age despite the tattoos. They were very happy to talk us through all the dishes and cocktails we were interested in.
I decided to go for a patriotic meal, opting for the Welsh cheese and leek tart. This was very tasty, with the salty cheese and pungent leek being offset by a lot of clotted cream. It came with surprisingly bland heritage potatoes and some boiled vegetables, which didn’t do the tart justice.
Fiancée had rump steak with pepper sauce, served with onion rings, chips, tomatoes and mushrooms. Her favourite part was the pepper sauce – when this ran out we asked for more, but were told we would be charged for opening a new packet! She still thought it was the best bit, with everything else just middling.
The cocktails, on the other hand were very good indeed. The passion fruit margarita was sharp and slightly salty, while the raspberry frozen daiquiri was rich, sweet and fruity. I don’t think the food was good enough value to justify a return, but I would certainly be up for trying more cocktails, particularly during their happy hour.
Henry’s is open from 09.00-23.00 Monday to Thursday, 09.00-01.00 Friday and Saturday, and 10.00-23.00 on Sunday.
Address: Park Chambers, Park Place, Cardiff CF103DN