Yim Wah House was a Chinese restaurant situated on the Caxton Gibbet roundabout of the A428 and A1198. It was so far away from any major population centres that it must have had to have sold good food, or it would have closed. I often drove past, but never actually managed to get there. You might have noticed the past tense; Yim Wah House burned down in 2009, and the owners made use of a couple of temporary properties before settling in Cambridge.
Yim Wah Express, then, is situated on the junction of Lensfield Road and Regent Street, opposite the Catholic church. It is slightly awkwardly laid out with odd angles, but it is nicely decorated and comfortable. The staff were all very friendly, and advised me on portion size, which was useful! I liked the open kitchen so you could watch the chef at work.
My mate started with duck pancakes, which came with onions, cucumber and hoi sin sauce. He was impressed, and the portion was large, with six pancakes. If you intend to have a couple of main dishes, definitely just share the duck and order extra pancakes!
Surprisingly, he was also impressed with my mock duck version, which he thought captured the texture of the real thing remarkably well. I also enjoyed it, being crunchy, chewy and savoury, with good sauce. As I was told, the portion is very large, so could also be shared.
Spring onion pancakes were crispy and fluffy with quite a bit of onion. They were good but not great, and did get a bit hard. However, with these that is better than soggy.
Friend really liked his beef with honey and black pepper (and lots of peas for a slightly British touch). It had the right mix of sweetness, saltiness and warming heat, and went well with the fluffy egg fried rice.
The only dish we didn’t really appreciate was the portion of grilled vegetable dumplings. These had a mushroom, glass noodle and egg filling which wasn’t strong enough to make it interesting. They did come with a dipping dish with vinegar and ginger, though.
I definitely recommend Yim Wah Express. It came to £30 per head, but we went for some of the more expensive dishes, so it could be cheaper. I would like to go back and try some of the mains, as I just stuck to dim sum style food this time. They also say they can make vegetarian versions of most of their dishes, so there could be a lot to explore. Yim Wah Express is open every day except Tuesdays, from 11.30-22.00.
Address: 2 Lensfield Road, Cambridge, CB21EG